Cut Above

When I told my father about my blog, it was over dinner at Center Cut, a new(ish) restaurant in the Empire Hotel near Lincoln Center. He was excited to not only be a future entry, but also for his economical choice, their summer prix-fixe dinner, 3-courses at $35/person.

Upon entering the restaurant, I was transfixed by the glass enclosed, floor to ceiling wine wall, which displayed hundreds of bottles, and separated the dining room from the front bar area. Since it was still fairly early, only a few older couples (probably going off to the ballet we were seeing after as well) sat in the airy dining room.

A quick glance through the menu showed fairly standard steakhouse classics with the last page for their summer menu presented with four options of soup, salad, main course and side dish. (Dinner would be one pick from each box.) Unfortunately knowing the meal would be followed by the ballet, I had to pass on a selection from the expansive wine list and stuck with water. Stated on the menu, dinner would be served in 2 courses; soup and salad first and the main dish with side next. Having saved room that day for a substantial meal, I chose the Tomato and Mozzarella Salad, French Onion Soup and the Steak Diane with a side of Spinach

The attentive waitstaff took our order and shortly after doing so, reappeared with a beautiful puffed Popover for my dad and I to share. Served in a cast iron pan, the warm bread came apart at the gentlest touch, revealing a soft, doughy center that practically melted on my tongue. We had barley finished the bread when the first course was served.

Presented side by side on simple white platter, the tomato and mozzarella salad was perfectly stacked, with generously thick slices of cheese sandwiched between perfectly ripe heirloom tomatoes. Lightly drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, the dish had just the right amount of seasoning to allow each element its time to shine, while also melding together in perfect harmony. Next to the salad sat a small bowl of french onion soup with a single Gruyere covered crouton. The rich broth was loaded with sliced onions, that were sweet and complimented the salty beef stock that had a touch of something else (was it sherry?) to give it a unique kick.

With a weakness for soup, I couldn't help but try the Double "Double" Lobster Bisque my dad had ordered. A gorgeous salmon pink color, the heavy cream and lush lobster meat with a light manzanilla drizzle was exactly the richness and sweetness a bisque should have.

Slowly starting to slip into a food coma, our dishes were cleared away and soon we were presented with our entrees; "smaller" versions of the dishes they normally serve. The large Steak Diane, which is a filet served with Worcestershire sauce and oyster mushrooms, was cooked to the exact pinkish center (black and blue is my steak preparation of choice) I had requested. The side of spinach sauteed in garlic and olive oil was rich enough to hold up next to the beef, but so well prepared it stood out on its own.

I reached across the table again, this time to try the Hot Smoked King Salmon and Steamed Asparagus on my dad's plate. With a light smokey flavor reminiscent of lox, the pan seared piece of fish, served on a bed of asparagus, was a new twist on what can often be the same Atlantic salmon at other establishments.

As I savored (and struggled to eat) every bite of meat, I couldn't help but wonder how much smaller these dishes were in comparison to their full price counterparts on the main menu. Finishing proved a feat in itself, and unfortunately I gave up, with half of the meal remaining untouched.

They cleared our plates and as we sat digesting all we had enjoyed, a final dish with 3 large homemade cookies (one sugar, one chocolate chip and one oatmeal raisin) was delivered to each of us. The plate had barely reached the table when the full, glazed over look, came across both of our faces and the waiter (clearly familiar with this fairly common occurrence) removed the cookie plates and returned moments later, this time with the cookies wrapped in to-go bags.

Show time was near and the check was delivered to the table without any additional surprises. The $35 dinner each, not including tax and tip, left our stomachs full and our wallets (or should I say my dad's wallet) much more full then other steakhouse visits. Plus, with access all night to the Empire Hotel's great rooftop bar, the dinner was not only a steal for the price and quality, but also an inexpensive (and filling) pass to one of the most beautiful views of the city.

Visit Center Cut at www.chinagrillmgt.com. Prix-fixe dinner at all of their restaurants through end of summer.